MÉTODO DE TRABAJO
MODELADO EN CERA
Para la realización de mis piezas de joyería utilizo el “modelado en cera”. Dicha especialidad consiste en que, partiendo de un diseño sobre papel, lo trasladamos a un taco de cera de modelar donde esculpimos la pieza diseñada dotándola de relieve y texturas… mediante diferentes tipos y tamaño de fresas, limas, etc…
Usando también la especialidad de “modelado en metal” cuando es necesario para favorecernos de las características de dicha rama de joyería. En esta especialidad, realizamos piezas con menos relieves y volúmenes. Muy utilizado para hacer boceles (soporte o cama donde descansa la gema para ser engastada* - véase más adelante-) para las gemas, casquillas que realizaremos para las piezas de joyería cinegética y un largo etc…
*Engastar:
Descripción:El engaste es uno de los pasos esenciales de la fabricación de joyería, en donde las piedras son sujetadas por una montura metálica.
Objetivos: Sujetar con seguridad la piedra, así como realzar el brillo de la piedra, mostrando el corte, la claridad y el color.
MICROFUSIÓN
Las piezas esculpidas en cera, las convertimos en metal a través de la “micro fusión”. Este paso consiste como se denomina en joyería, montar un “*arbolito”. Mediante un canal o bebedero, se une a un vástago central (también de cera).
Se coloca un cilindro y se rellena de revestimiento, que al secar, lo pasamos a un horno donde la cera se derrite y se evacua por dicho vástago dejando en el interior el vacío.
En este momento, fundimos el metal que vayamos a utilizar en las joyas (oro, plata, latón) que una vez fundido (líquido) se inyecta al cilindro para ocupar el vacío dejado por la cera y por último, cortar el bebedero que une las piezas al vástago central.
SACADO DE FUEGO
Las piezas sacadas de la fundición pasan a ser repasadas. Una vez cortado el bebedero (véase en el apartado de fundición), se repasa con lima y lija de diferentes grosores para ir dando el acabado requerido antes de empezar a montar las piezas.
Una vez repasada todas las piezas mediante el sacado de fuego, se empieza a montar el trabajo que tenemos que ejecutar (tiaras, broches, pendientes…)
Dependiendo de cada trabajo, tendremos que montar una base que soporte las piezas en el caso de apliques, tiaras o directamente someterlas a fuego para soldarlas. Primero se usará hilo de atar (si el trabajo lo requiere) para ajustar las piezas que mediante fuego, son soldadas (con soldadura de oro o plata) para unirlas con fuerza y evitar que con un buen uso de la pieza, pueda haber deterioro.
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El último paso, el metal es sometido a ácido (blanquimento) para eliminar las capas de oxidación provocadas por el fuego y dejar la superficie limpia (óxido y grasas) para los siguientes pasos.
El engaste es uno de los pasos esenciales de la fabricación de joyería, en donde las piedras son sujetadas por una montura metálica.Sujetar con seguridad la piedra, así como realzar el brillo de la piedra, mostrando el corte, la claridad y el color.
Hay varios tipos de engaste en función a las características de las gemas y sus tallas. Los más comunes son el engaste en bocel (normalmente para gemas con talla cabujón o facetadas), engaste en garras (normalmente para gemas facetadas), en grano (gemas facetadas y normalmente pequeñas), etc…
Los acabados utilizados también puede ser varios: Baño de oro blanco (rodiado), baño de oro amarillo, baño de plata envejecido, dorado envejecido… estos son lo más utilizados por mí para el acabado de mis piezas.
El acabado irá principalmente del gusto de la clienta, aunque también se le aconseja en función al tipo de gema y color, dependiendo el evento…
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